The drive down to Halong Bay from Hanoi was uneventful enough. If you call 270 minutes of plying chicken with every type of vehicle known to man! The trucks, buses and cars are now super sized. Ten years ago they were small and slow. Even though its a two-laned highway (and a better made road), the driving surface is totally fluid. Two lanes quickly become three lanes, quickly become four as drivers overtake often simultaneously in both directions. Everyone the shimmies toward the verge and hopes a cyclist or scooter doesn't end up in the nearest rice paddy.
And then onto Halong bay - the land of dragons and pirates! Before we could even get round to explaining the equivalent of the Halong 'Loch Ness' Monster story to Harper, an almighty blue broke out between our driver and the boat tour operator. My Vietnamese is non-existent but I can read body language and tone and what was going down wasn't good. A few animated phone calls back to base and it was over. But our driver wasn't happy and said this was a 'bad man' - at which point he left shaking his head. The tour guide promptly told me our driver was a 'bad man'. Our destination Cat Ba was looking a little shaky.
Anyway after parting with a little more cash for 'sightseeing' (this whole section was meant to be pre-paid) we got on our boat and took off. Now this was a reasonable size boat, perhaps holding 30 passengers. But we were the sole passengers, outnumbered only by the crew. Another omen perhaps. A feast then ensued. Steamed bass, calamari salad, shrimp, stuffed crab shell, fried tofu, rice and chips. And then some French white wine. Lambs to the slaughter!
Just as we were starting to relax, the plot moved to phase 2. Out came a tray of Halong Bay pearls in the form of necklaces and bracelets. Not content with our first purchases, out came a second tray of kids toys. Fortunately, the first cave tour loomed on the horizon and we left to sightseeing and photo taking. Lambs on a leash!
The passage through the islands was very good. Misty, quiet, reflective. Jagged limestone ramparts in every direction creating a sense of depth and deception. James Bond, of course.
Before we knew it a call went out 'Cat Ba!' In disbelief I scrambled to the side to look ahead. This didn't look like Cat Ba the township, it looked like Cat Ba the island drop off point where unsuspecting tourists are abandoned to the local marauders. My hear sank. What were we to do? No point trying to negotiate with the captain - he was up to his neck in it. It was at least 2 hours steaming to the proper harbour and he was not going to do that. A quick read of our Lonely Planet on 'Scams to avoid on Cat Ba' (I kid you not) and we decided that the best way to get make the 40km road trio to the township was to take the local bus. At 20,000 dong it was a bargain (US$1). The taxis hassle you for 500,000 dong. The only problem is we had no ideas do the schedule and how rough it might be.
As it turned out, the bus ride was the best part of the trip. Waiting for the bus to leave, we go to know the driver and he was very helpful. He didn't have a scam he was working. Along the way we saw the most fascinating array of locals get on and off the bus - school kids, tradesmen, women villagers - and here we were camped up the back of the bus with all our belongings. We were as much a source of fascination as they were to us.
And at last our destination. With one last twist. Phil came down with food poisoning (and I'll spare you the details. Lambs unleashed.
K
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