I took some quick snaps, changed into my running gear (by now, a little tighter than normal) and took the elevator the 12 levels down to the street. The air was already warm and humid. Everywhere around me people were exercising, talking, stretching, doing tai chi, joining in group aerobics, playing soccer, swimming.... it's bloody 5 o'clock in the morning! So I joined the maddening throng and wove my way on a jog southward, then in a reverse direction and into my exercises....sweating like a pig again.
Back to a shower, quick pack and buffet breakfast (Harper's favourite) and, as luck would have it, our driver was there ready to hit the road at 8.00.
Back to a shower, quick pack and buffet breakfast (Harper's favourite) and, as luck would have it, our driver was there ready to hit the road at 8.00.
Dalat is renowned for its chateaux like residences built by the French colonialists as summer retreats. Our hotel 'Dalat du Parc' was one of these, full of charm and old world character, including an iron gated lift, but wholly impractical at almost every other level. Wifi struggled to work in the room, the bathroom was fairly ugly, the fold out bed was broken, staff lacked any service culture, etc.
After freshening up, we went for a wander into the Dalat market and centre of town about 1.5 kms away. The townscape itself is also very charming and quite picturesque in its own way, but beneath the surface this place is not very satisfying to the western tourist. It caters largely to Vietnamese tourists, especially Those on romantix getaways or wedding parties. Most people struggle with English and the service was poor in many places.
Case in point: we went into a lakeside cafe which 'looked' very appealing with its outdoor setting and garden/river views. Our waiter could barely communicate and was totally disinterested in us or our order. When I finally got a beer and virtually restrained him from putting ice in it, he chucked a rusty, decrepit bottle opener on the table - leaving me to the unopened bottle and wondering which rubbish tip the implement had been rescued from. The wifi didn't work despite repeated attempts with various staff to hold them to their claim of having such a thing. And so on it went.
We toddled off soon enough looking for better things. By the lake we found some old fashioned swan paddle boats and spent a happy hour in the beautiful sunny weather, 'swanning' about. Harper loved it.
As for shopping, the market had little appeal (we've done our dash by now), but we did find a few things of interest elsewhere. We spotted a musical instrument store and decided to explore that. Phil's fancy was taken by some mandolins which potentially were small enough to carry home. After some playing and checking their make quality (cheap copies), he bought one for less than $50. Since had some serious playing back in the hotel...has a nice sound and pretty good action which is all I need for the joy of being able to play one of these again.
But the big highlight of our day was yet to come. Lisa did some careful research and organized us to go to the 'New Art Cafe' in town. This is run by an idiosyncratic artist (possibly an oxymoron on my part) who runs an even more idiosyncratic restaurant. Vo Trinh Bien is a unique modernist painter whose work has been recognised in the Vietnam Fine Art Museum. His paintings and installations adorn the restaurant along with some musical instruments and decor that creates various illusions. He personally greets you, takes your order, tends your needs and makes good conversation. His warmth is infectious on his staff and patrons. Then as the 'piece de resistance' for the evening, he draws a 'finger style' painting at your table as a gift to take away with you (no charge). Oh...and did I mention, the food and wine was spectacular! What a fabulous evening! What fabulous and unexpected service.
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